Hanoi

Paul on the The Huc Bridge of Hoan Kiem Lake

at Den Ngoc Son (Jade Mountain Temple)

 Hanoi, the capital city of Vietnam, has been known by many names since the area was first inhabited in around 3000 BC. It recently, 2010, celebrated its official 1000th birthday. The name Ha Noi, meaning the city at the river's bend, was given by the Nguyen emperor, Minh Mang in 1831. It is the second largest city in Vietnam, after Ho Chi Minh City, with a population of about 7 million. It has a warm, humid, subtropical climate with four seasons, even though the fall and spring seasons only last 1 month each! When we visited Hanoi in February (winter), the temperature fell between 20 and 24 degrees C, which the Vietnamese consider cool.

Inside Den Ngoc Son

park near former French Quarter

Hanoi has survived many invasions and wars. The French made it the capital of colonial IndoChina in the the late 1800's and began a vigorous campaign of building and infrastructure construction. Hanoi was occupied briefly by the Japanese in 1940, but was reoccupied by the French in 1946. After 9 years of fighting between the French and the Viet Minh (Ho Chi Minh's communist party), Hanoi became the capital of an independent North Vietnam in 1954 and, after the end of the American War, it was proclaimed capital of a reunified Vietnam in 1976.

We stayed at the Hanoi Essence hotel, a marvellous hotel
right in the heart of the old quarter.

Hanoi is definitely a place to visit in Vietnam. With its Chinese influence and legacy of French colonial style: huge mansions, grand boulevards, parks and lakes, it was exciting and attractive. Even after American bombs and Russian influenced planning (after WWII), it still represents a good example of a French inspired colonial city.

Old quarter, during Tet

The old quarter is the oldest commercial district in Hanoi. Most of the narrow streets are named after the trade guilds they once represented, for example, Hang Tre (Bamboo Street), Hang Bac (Silver Street). While today the shops offer more than what their name suggests, it is a unique and interesting glimpse into history.

Van Mieu Gate, Temple of Literature

The Temple of Literature is the oldest architectural complex in Hanoi. It was founded in 1070 in honour of the Chinese philosopher, Confucius. It is divided into 5 courtyards separated by walls and gateways and connected by a central pathway which divides the complex into symmetrical halves.

Well of Heavenly Clarity

One Pillar Pagoda

The One Pillar Pagoda is an icon in Hanoi. It was built by Emporer Ly Thai Tong in AD 1049 and sits on a single stone pillar which stands in a lotus pond. It was built to represent a lotus flower in gratitude for the birth of the Emporer's son. Over the centuries, the pagoda has been damaged and reconstructed many times. It was burned by the French in 1954, presumably in retaliation for the battle of Dien Bien Phu.

Hoan Kiem Lake

Hoan Kiem Lake (Lake of the Restored Sword) is situated in the centre of Hanoi. Legend tells of golden turtle living in the lake which presented a magical sword to General Le Loi. With the help of the sword, the general was able to expel the occupying Chinese from the city and establish himself as Emporer. Some time later, when he was sailing on the lake, the turtle rose to the surface and reclaimed the sword.

Ho Chi Minh Museum

Located next to the Mausoleum, the Ho Chi Minh Museum was built in 1990 to chronicle and celebrate the life of 'Uncle Ho'. The exhibits are housed on 3 floors of the 107000 sq. ft. Soviet inspired, whitewashed building. Ho's life story is told in flashy, propaganda style, that is I'm told, lacking in substance. We did not go in but I liked the stark, clean appearance of the building.    

Zoom Tour

During the last week of February, I went on a tour of HCMC with a couple visiting relatives of CIS staff. The tour was called 'Vietnam Vespa Adventures', and it is headquartered in a cafe in District 1 called the Zoom Cafe. You travel around the city on the back of a Vespa, driven by a Vietnamese driver. The idea is to get people off the crowded tourist trail and experience parts of the 'real' Saigon. I really enjoyed this tour. We left at 8:00 am and returned at 2:00 (after lunch at Zoom Cafe). Highly recommend this tour.

We started out at the 'bird park'. It works a bit like a dog park. People come from all over, by scooter, with their birds. Some bring many cages on 1 scooter. It is supposed to be good for the birds to socialize. I didn't see any women, so I asked the guide where they were. "They working." OK, without wanting to sound biased, but isn't that just typical. The men enjoy a morning at the park (with their birds) and the women are working, busy with jobs and family!!

There are clothesline-like structures so the cages can be hung.

                                   
This beautiful statue was erected to  Buddhist monk Thich Quang Duc, who drove to the busy intersection across from this site, doused himself with gasoline and burned himself to death. He was protesting the treatment of Buddhists by the then Catholic government of South Vietnam under Diem. This happened in 1963, and the picture, taken by Malcolm Browne, won a pulitzer prize. Although Duc's act did result in reforms being developed, these reforms were never adopted and the treatment of Buddhists worsened until Diem's assassination in late 1963.

I am lighting an incense stick and my Zoom tour companion,
Vera, has just put one in the cauldron.

The large cauldron in the centre of the picture holds in incense sticks. Incense is burned to purify the surroundings, calm the mind, and as a gesture of respect. It is believed in Buddhism, that the smoke acts like a bridge to connect real life with the after life. By lighting incense, we are inviting our ancestors back to earth, to enjoy our offerings and to receive their blssings and protection.

On our way to the flower market. All the
storefronts are open and you can buy all kinds of goods.

Selling drinks from the back of a
scooter.

 One lady was making biscuits (for sale) on this little habatchi like contraption.

We weren't sure what these were, although they looked tasty. I've been told it is best to avoid street food, unless you are with a Vietnamese person who knows what you're getting.











Not many people have a clothes dryer (including us). So, clothes are hung on the balcony, or outside the window. Our apartment is fairly modern, so we have a drying room. It is like a balcony, but the whole wall is metal bars about 4 inches apart, allowing the air to pass through. There is a small storage room and another bathroom off the drying rooom.

Each flower had a protective cover.

 A stall in the flower market. Vietnamese people love flowers. There is a whole market devoted to just flowers.


Transport of bolts of cloth by scooter.

Cloth market

The cloth market was mainly for wholesale purchases, but Vietnamese will sell to anyone, even in small amounts.

Cloth market

           

Incense in the cauldron

Cholon (District 5), coils of incense hang from the ceiling.

We visited a temple and a pagoda. A pagoda is a several storied, tiered tower for worshipping Buddha. A temple is usually one or two stories. This is a Chinese Temple in Cholon (District 5) which is the China town of Saigon. The coils on the ceiling are incense. They take about a week to burn. People pay extra for one of these because it takes longer to burn and therefore they will have better fortune and pay higher honour and respect to their ancestors. Each incense coil has a name tag. 

Me with our guide.

 Cholon (China Town in HCMC) What you see on the alter are offerings to the ancestors and Buddha.

We also went to a Buddhist pagoda and saw an actual service, which was fascinating. All the participants were wearing flowing black robes and the monks were in orange robes. You must remove your shoes in the alter chamber and your clothing should be modest: long pants and long sleeved shirts, however all the temples and pagodas I have visited were not too strict about dress. I think if you had spaghetti straps and short shorts, you would have been denied access.

The top floor of the Pagoda was the worship hall. We had to remove our shoes on the floor below.  Worshipers covered themselves with black robes (provided) and the monks were in orange and white, more ornate robes.

The Pagoda was narrow and several stories high. The third, fourth and fifth floors looked like a library (above). However, it is not books that are being stored - it is the ashes of the ancestors, all neatly labeled. 

Herb/medicine market in District 5. I didn't recognize anything!

 Me with my traveling companions, Malcom and Vera. Saigon River and District 1 in the background.

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

Kevin and Drew were our first overnight guests!

Cocktail time with Heather at the aptartment

 Yes Elizabeth, there is basketball in HCMC. The SSA Saigon Heat is the first ever international pro basketball team to represent Vietnam. I'm told the team is decent am I'm hoping to attend a game. Sadly, no hockey.





HCMC is the largest city in Vietnam, with a population of about 7 million (plus a few tourists like those at left!). 93% of the city's inhabitants are ethnic Vietnamese. The next largest group is Chinese (6 %). Cholon, or District 5 in HCMC, is home to the largest Chinese community in Vietnam.

The City is divided into 24 Administrative Districts, which are both urban and rural. We live in District 7, which is part of the new South Saigon Urban development. The majority of the tourist spots are found in District 1, which still has wide, elegant boulevards (packed with scooters) and many French colonial buildings. There is also an 'unofficial' backpackers district located within District 1 which is known for its affordable accommodation, cheap clothes (great knock-offs), souvenirs etc. A decent room in a hostel can be had for as little as $6 per night.

I was told by a Vietnamese guide on one of our tours that the city has 2 seasons: the hot season and the rainy season. The beginning of the rainy season coincides with my return to Canada at the beginning of May!

Paul and Randy (view towards our kitchen).

Continental Hotel, colonial French building famously
frequented by visitors like Walter Cronkite, Somerset

 Maugham and Graham Greene, author of the Quiet American.

The traffic circle outside the Ben Thanh market.

Outside the War Remnants Museum - a very graphic portrayal
of the American War. Many disturbing images, particularly
of the after-effects of the use of the defoliant Agent Orange. 

 HCMC was originally a Khmer (Cambodian)

trading post called Prey Nokor. It was conquered by the French in 1959 and influences on the city's infrastructure and architecture can still be seen in the city today. During French

colonial occupation, it was the capital of Cochinchina and known as Saigon. When the French were defeated at the battle of Dien Bien Phu and subsequently French troops were withdrawn from the North and the Viet Minh from the south, Saigon became the capital of the Republic of Vietnam (1955 - 1975). In July 1976, the Communist government, after having defeated the U. S., renamed the city, Ho Chi Minh, after their much admired leader, although Saigon is still commonly used.

Heather, Randy and my young friend Nhi, who acted as our
guide, upstairs at the Rex Hotel, famous for the 'five o'clock
follies' during the American War.

On the way to Ben Thanh.

Heather outside the General Post Office.

The Ben Thanh Market is a very recognizable landmark and the spot I use as a drop off/pick up point for taxi drivers. It is an easy walk to the other sites from there. It was built by the French in 1914 and is a covered concrete building of enormous size. You can get anything at this market from fresh produce, clothing, jewellry, spices, souvenirs to livestock and hardware. Prices are cheap but bargaining is necessary.

Heather, Randy and I - perpetual Spring!

I think my favourite building in the city is the General Post office. It was designed by a French architect in the late 1800's and it reminds me of Union Station. I'm told the architect, Gustave Eiffel, modeled it after Gare de l'est in Paris. It represents gothic, renaissance and French influences.

Randy, Paul, Heather before dinner at Cham Charm, Phu
My Hung.

The Municipal Theatre, AKA the Opera House.

Phu My Hung sunset (from our 4th floor apt.)

Cham Charm is a great buffet style restaurant in Phu My Hung. It's Cham heritage is reflected in the architecture and the food. The Cham people are an ethnic group found mainly in Cambodia, Loas and Vietnam. They are thought to be the remnant population of the Kingdom of Champa and their culture has been profoundly influenced by Indian culture. Small groups of both Muslim and Hindu Cham people can be found in HCMC.




The Municipal Theatre, or as it is more commonly known, the Opera House is a beautiful French colonial building built in 1899 as a concert hall for the French. it was used briefly as the headquarters of the South Vietnamese National Assembly in 1956. It is used today for performances that include everything from traditional Vietnamese theater and classical Western music to rock concerts and gymnastics.