Friday, 8 November 2013

Angkor - Cambodia: Part 1


                            A Brief History of Cambodia


Cambodian Flag
Cambodia is a flat, low lying country bordered by Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The population of Cambodia is approximately 15 million. Of this roughly 90 precent are are Khmer. The next highest ethnic group is Vietnamese at 5%. The median age is 24 years. Like Ho Chi Minh City, Cambodia has 2 seasons: the wet season ( May to November) and the hot/dry season. The capital of Cambodia is now, Phnom Penh, but for nearly six centuries, 

between 802 and 1432, Angkor, held that position. Angkor was the political and religious centre of the Khmer Empire, which once extended from the South China Sea to the Bay of Bengal.

Khmer Empire in red.  Source: Wikipedia

At the turn of the first century, South East Asia was the centre of a vast trade network. Indian and Chinese traders came to the area in increasing numbers, exposing the people to their culture. In Cambodia it was Indian culture than took root and spread throughout the region for several centuries, but the various states warred with each other until 802, when a Khmer Prince named Jayavarman II returned to the area from the Indonesian island of Java. He was a warrior who, upon returning to Cambodia, united most of the competing Khmer states. He was declared god-king and adopted the Hindu religion. 










                                                                                                     


While a long succession of strong  leaders enabled the Khmer empire to flourish until the 15th century, the height of the empire's influence, power and architectural wonder was reached in the 12th century. The Kmer kings established a succession of capitals located in and around what is now the town of Siem Reap.

French Indochina, early 1900's
From the 15th century, the Khmer Empire was assaulted by the expanding Kingdom of Siam to the west and continued to be besieged by both the Siamese and Vietnamese through the 17th and 18th centuries. Then, in the mid-1800s, European colonialists started to arrive. In 1863, a Protectorate Treaty was signed with the French which led to 90 years of French domination over the Khmer people.



Skulls of victims of the Khmer Rouge on display in Phnom Penh in 1981.
Source: Associated press
The country was occupied briefly in1945 by the Japanese, but the French returned after the end of World War II. The Head of State at the time, King Sihanouk, began a tireless crusade for independence, which was granted in 1953. After that, the country experienced several prosperous years, even though neighboring Laos and Vietnam were embroiled in civil War. But, in spite of the government’s best efforts, Cambodia was unable to avoid being drawn into the mess in Vietnam. Cambodia became victim of secret bombings and cross-border incursions, which may have precipitated civil war. In 1975, the communist Khmer Rouge seized power and that regime terrorized its citizens for 4 years, ultimately murdering more than one million people.

The Khmer Rouge were finally overthrown in 1979 by the Vietnamese-backed People's Republic of Kampuchea. However, Cambodia did not return to a full peace until 1991, when, with UN support, Cambodia held free and fair elections. A new constitution was promoted and in September 1993, the Monarchy was proclaimed a Royal Government recognized by the world community.




Siem Reap was a small, simple village in Cambodia's northwest when early French explorers stumbled onto Angkor in the 19th century. Siem Reap began to grow however, after the French acquired Angkor due to an agreement made in 1907 with the Siamese, and the first wave of tourists began to arrive. Today, Siem Reap is a major tourist hub with modern hotels and resorts, yet retaining its unique history and culture.
View from the Tuk-tuk, Siem Reap. Tuk-tuks are the only city taxi available. 

Dinner poolside at the Hotel.

The woman here is playing a roneat ek in the lobby of our hotel. A Cambodian xylophone, the roneat ek has twenty-one thick bamboo or wooden bars that are suspended from strings attached to the two walls. They are cut into pieces of the same width, but of different lengths and thickness. The instrument on the left is a khim, a stringed (42) instrument. The musician holds small bamboo sticks with soft leather tips at the ends to strike the strings and produce soft tones.

We're on our way to Angkor Thom. You can't see in this picture, but Paul had
to buy long pants when we got to Cambodia, (from the market, silk,
$8.00 CDN). When you visit the temples your knees and shoulders must be
covered. This applies to both men and women




Borei Angkor Resort, Siem Reap. Beautiful hotel, great food, attentive staff.



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